Four 3D prints I use every time I open my PC case
At a glance:
- A mechanical design engineer shares four everyday 3D prints — a pocket ratcheting bit driver, TPU I/O dust plugs, cable combs, and a pry tool — that replace commercial tools on his workbench.
- All four prints favor PETG filament for durability, with specific print settings like 20% infill, four walls, and layer-line orientation called out for each item.
- The pieces address real friction points: reaching tight motherboard screws in ITX builds, protecting GPU and motherboard ports from dust, managing cable runs, and prying push-pin chassis panels.
A 3D printer as essential workstation gear
PC building is rarely a one-and-done affair. Enthusiasts routinely pop the side panel to add storage, install PCIe accessories like sound cards and networking adapters, or just run routine cleaning. Keeping a rig pristine — especially an all-white build — demands a reliable toolkit, and for Chandraveer, a mechanical design engineer turned tech reporter with bylines at Android Police and iPhoneHacks, that toolkit now includes a desktop 3D printer.
What started as a prototyping machine has become an indispensable part of his workbench. Over the past few years the printer transitioned from novelty to everyday utility, letting him fabricate otherwise hard-to-find maintenance gear in minutes rather than days waiting for shipping. The result is a short list of four prints he reaches for every single time his PC's side panel comes off.
The pocket ratcheting bit driver
A long-shaft screwdriver is indispensable for tight spots — think the upper-left motherboard mounting screw after you've installed a top-mount radiator and a rear-facing case fan. But lugging a foot-long driver around isn't convenient, and it gets impractical inside dense ITX cases. Chandraveer printed a reversible ratcheting screwdriver for 4mm hex bits with integrated storage, and later found improved versions with more secure bit retention and larger sizes for standard 6.35mm hex drivers.
The recommendation is to print in PETG for durability since the internal ratcheting mechanism handles moderate torque. PETG also avoids the need for a heated enclosure, unlike ABS. A tiny dab of lithium grease on the printed gear teeth makes the mechanism feel almost as smooth as a commercial tool. The combination of size, integrated bit storage, and one-handed operation makes this his top recommendation for PC builders — grab the ratchet, the bits are already in the grip, and you get straight to work.
TPU dust plugs for exposed I/O
Running a standard dual-monitor setup means two or three empty DisplayPort or HDMI slots are often exposed on the GPU. The same goes for unused USB ports on the motherboard. Over time those openings accumulate dust, pet hair, and particulate gunk that can hamper functionality. Cleaning them is a nightmare because tools might bend pins and vacuums generate static.
Most new GPUs ship with dust covers for unused ports, but if you misplaced or disposed of yours, friction-fit replacements are a 10-minute print away. The key material here is TPU — a pliant filament that won't scratch internal contacts or loosen ports the way harder filaments might. Dust caps are especially beneficial on upward-facing front I/O panels. Chandraveer blasts the ports with compressed air before inserting a 3D-printed plug, making later cleaning much easier. The Printables model he credits is from @mfischer79.
Cable combs for clean builds
Cable management is the visual signature of a good PC build, but store-bought acrylic cable combs on custom-sleeved cables are irritatingly expensive for what they do. A desktop 3D printer removes that cost barrier. These printed combs go on like clothespins because they're open from one side, unlike prefabricated combs you'd add to custom-sleeved runs before terminating connectors.
The model includes combs for four-pin, eight-pin, and 24-pin connectors, and there's nothing stopping you from printing as many as you need. Chandraveer recommends using the last 10g of any filament you have, ideally PETG for the slight elasticity and durability that outperforms PLA's brittleness. It's a small thing, but it keeps the build looking intentional without the premium price tag.
The pry tool and print orientation matters
A pry tool is the kind of accessory you'd find for $10 on Amazon, or you could spend two hours printing to justify your printer purchase. Either way, it earns its place — for undoing tightly fastened chassis panels held in with push-pins or even a car's dashboard trim pieces. Cheaper commercial plastic spudgers bundled with budget phone repair kits seem designed for single use, whereas a 3D-printed replacement can serve much longer.
The cautionary note here is print orientation. The tool should be printed so that layer lines flow along the length of the tool for maximum strength. Chandraveer recommends bumping infill up to 20% or more and adding four walls so that when the edge wears out you're not rushing to reprint. He uses PETG or ABS for this one, favoring non-brittle, rigid materials. The Printables source is from @Niko_1882816.
Why a 3D printer might be the ultimate peripheral
3D printing in the PC space is often viewed by outsiders as a completely separate, niche hobby. But Chandraveer has found it to be a utilitarian extension of the PC builder's toolkit. It cuts down waiting time for niche maintenance gear and rids you of subpar tooling. You manufacture exactly what you need, and more when needs change.
For anyone who loves modding their PC, the argument is straightforward: a sub-$300 printer can replace a handful of specialty tools, custom adapters, and maintenance accessories that are either overpriced or simply unavailable through traditional retail. The filament cost per part is negligible, and the ability to iterate on a design — tweaking bit storage size or comb spacing — means the tools get better over time rather than degrading with use like cheap commercial alternatives.
FAQ
What filament should I use for the ratcheting bit driver?
Which cable comb sizes are included in the recommended print?
What print settings does the author recommend for the pry tool?
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